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Sights in Nice

Nice really has it all, from Old Town squares to live music and bustling Provencal markets. Read on for our little guide on what we think is best in the city by the sea.

Promenade des Anglais

The Promenade des Anglais is more than just a place to deliberate over where to plant your towel or work up an appetite before dining in one of Nice's excellent restaurants, it is the place to see and be seen in the city. Built in the 19th century by English residents, the Promenade still attracts the rich and fashionable from all over the world who keep up the tradition of the early evening stroll before dinner.

Running the length of the beachfront, a walk down the boulevard offers plenty of opportunities for people watching or admiring the invariably glorious sunset. Looking good is a must, so bring your finery.

Place Massena 

This fountain-strewn public square is at the heart of Nice - the pulse of the city radiates out from here. As much a park as it is an urban square the expanse of green is often littered with people eating lunch, socialising or just whiling away another glorious day on the Riviera.

Neo-classical arcades and elegant buildings, all of which are painted a striking Pompeiian red, surround the square contrasting with the enigmatic skeletal art sculptures that adorn the fountain centrepiece. The square is also at the hub of Nice's business and shopping district making it the perfect point to start a browse of the boutiques.

Place Rossetti and St Reparate Cathedral 

The Baroque faade of Nice's 17th century cathedral looks down on the cafes and bars of the Old Town's liveliest square. There is a palpable air of history in the surrounding maze of narrow streets and alleys, and nowhere else in the city has as much of a traditional Mediterranean ambience.

The Cathedral itself has been a place of worship for centuries, and archaeological remnants of both Greek and Roman temples lie underneath the present structure. Above the square rises the Parc du Chateau, laid out in a mock-Greek style in homage to the first settlement here, the Greek town of Nikaia.

Nice Beach 

The city's main draw stretches for 4km from the airport to the Colline du Chateau tree-dappled hill above Nice Old Town. Better still, it is almost entirely public unlike many stretches on the Riviera. However, it's best to bring a beachmat as the beach is pebbly rather than sandy.

There are free showers every 100m. Cool-box wielding locals trot along the beach every few minutes ready to sell you an ice-cold beer or slice of watermelon.

Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art 

The building that houses Nice's Musee d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain, or MAMAC as it is locally known, is as much an exhibit itself as it is a functional space. Built in grey marble, glass and brushed metal, views stretch for miles around from the top floor making it a great place to orientate yourself from.

Inside, transparent footbridges interconnect the three floors that contain significant collections from the Modern Art movement right up to the present day. The European and American avant-garde school are well represented and all the big names are here: Andy Warhol, Yves Klein, Alexander Calder and more.

Matisse Museum 

Whether or not you appreciate Matisse's decorative and exuberant paintings, the 17th century Genoese country villa in which this collection is housed is reason alone to visit the museum. The museum is in the Cimiez area, a ten-minute walk north of the Nice-Ville rail station. This huge selection of engravings, drawings and cutouts spans Matisse's entire career and includes the period in which he made Nice his home (1917-1954).

Sun-worshippers can read an inscription by the painter himself explaining that he moved down to the south of France as the quality of the light was so helpful for his art.

Colline du Chateau and Naval Museum 

The flower-filled, landscaped park of Colline du Chateau was once the heart of ancient Nice. Nowadays it is the favoured spot for wonderful views across the town and out to sea. Take a picnic and enjoy the sea breezes among the Roman ruins or the shaded groves of trees. While browsing up here it's worth dropping in the Bellanda Tower, home to a naval museum including a gruesome collection of weapons.

National Bible Museum of Marc Chagall 

This homage to the Russian born graphic artist Marc Chagall houses hundreds of the modern genius's works. Over 15 enormous paintings form the Museum's centrepiece, including 12 that together make up the "Message Biblique", representing the stories of Noah, Abraham and other Old Testament figures.

Sculptures, sketches and mosaics are crammed into the museum but it is the stained-glass windows that really take the breath away - especially when illuminated by the clear Mediterranean sunlight.

Cimiez Graveyard 

Even though it's surrounded by a much-visited monastery and church, this tranquil corner of Nice is surprisingly undisturbed and the perfect foil to the town's frenetic beachfront. It's a great place to escape from the town for a while and its Mediterranean air is a far cry from gloomy cemeteries elsewhere. Don't think you're the first to appreciate the cemetery's serenity. The graveyard is the final resting-place of artists Raoul Dufy and Henri Matisse.

Activities in Nice

Music

Nice comes alive for its yearly jazz festival each July in the park in Cimiez. Recent guests have included Jimmy Cliff and Kool and the Gang. Several of the bars in Nice Old Town such as Wayne's and Johnny's feature live acts several times a week. It's often enough to sit in a cafe to catch passing musicians wielding double basses, guitars and even pianos on wheels.

The Tourist Information office has details on the regular concerts on the Colline du Chateau above Nice, at one of several theatres or at one of Nice's many art gallery exhibition rooms.

Reggae, pop and rock concerts take place at the Nikaia arena (Tel:+33 (0)4-9229-3112) and at the football stadium. The Tourist Information offices around town, as well as the branches of Fnac and Virgin on Avenue Jean Medecin, act as booking agents for the events.

Sport 

Nice's football squad play at the Stade du Ray in the St Maurice district of town, some 2km north of Nice-Ville rail station. Despite lounging in the second division for several years, a spring of new talent now places the club as one of the leading teams in France's top league.

Matches take place every other Saturday and cost around ?12 for a ticket. Buses 1, 2 or 5 run to the stadium. Volleyball, boules and snorkelling are all do able on the beach. Visitors can also try sailing at Three'B Yachting (Quai Lunel; Tel: +33 (0)4-9356-5505), scuba at Nice Diving (26 Bl de Stalingrad; Tel: +33 (0)4-9389-4244) or other watersports at Aigle Nautique (50 Bl Franck Pilatte; Tel: +33 (0)4-0356-7799).

Swimming feels like the national pastime on Nice beach on a sunny Sunday. In cooler weather locals use the trendy town centre Canal Form pool (1 Rue Andrioli; Tel +33 (0)4-9396-9654), the public Jean Medecin pool (178 rue de France; Tel: +33 (0)4-9386-2401) or the Piscine St Francois (13 Place St Francois; Tel +33 (0)4-9385-5308) in Nice Old Town.

Volleyball, boules and snorkelling are all beach activities. Visitors can also try sailing at Three'B Yachting (Quai Lunel; Tel: +33 (0)4-9356-5505), scuba at Nice Diving (26 Bl de Stalingrad; Tel: +33 (0)4-9389-4244) or other watersports at Aigle Nautique (50 Bl Franck Pilatte; Tel: +33 (0)4-0356-7799).

Theatre 

The highly respected Theatre de Nice on Promenade des Arts (Tel: +33 (0)4-9313-9090) features a solid variety of performances, occasionally from touring English companies, for about ?10 to ?30. Nice Old Town is home to countless tiny theatre houses, many with the odd English-language show.

Wander around the streets to discover them, or pick up many of the paper flyers thrust around before events. Street theatre in town involves Brazilian capoirera displays, mini-plays and dance.

Opera 

The Opera de Nice, 4 rue St-Francois-de-Paule (Tel: +33 (0)4-9217-4040) is a grand old building dating from the late 19th century. A full programme of opera (in season) is presented, with the real heavyweights of the great operas dominating the schedule. Ticket prices range greatly from just ?8 up to ?100 but you will struggle to get the best seats at short notice, especially for the traditional favourites such as Carmen.

Cinema 

Many cinemas on the Cote d'Azur have version originale showings (signified by the letters VO next to the production). The Mercury (Place Garibaldi, Tel: +33 (0)4-9355-3781) and the Rialto (4 Rue de Rivoli; Tel: +33 (0)4-9388-0841) show the vast majority Nice's best English-language films.

Casinos

The moneyed nature of the Riviera has long led to it being associated with playboy lifestyles, just one facet of which are the gambling tables of the Monte Carlo Casino (Place du Casino, Monaco; Tel: +377 9216-2300). If you're curious to get a taste of what's going on down the coast at not quite so high-rolling prices, try Nice's own Casino Ruhl (1 Promenade des Anglais; Tel: +33 (0)4-3703-1222). Unless you're really pushing the boat out it is best to avoid the restaurant, but the cabaret can be amusing. Dress smartly and take a passport to get in. Open 10h00 until dawn.